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Beach in Anjuna, India By Sonja Bjelland

Yes, the beach state on the Arabian Sea known for drugs and partying Europeans is turning to yoga. But Goa the state, and the yoga landscape, are a bit difficult to navigate.

With a dose of Portuguese influence and miles of sandy beaches, it’s really a place you have to settle in to.

I’ll admit I didn’t take the time to do it up right. I wanted to move on to the spice plantations and backwaters of Kerala. A few days in Goa can leave a traveler frustrated wondering why anyone would bother. But getting on a motorbike and crossing rice paddies for a sunset dinner at the beach shows why people keep coming back.

I stayed in the city of Candolim, in what’s considered Central Goa on the recommendation of some fellow travelers. It’s pretty difficult to decide where to be based and I’m not quite the drop-me-off-and-let-me-find-a-hut traveler. That’s what Lonely Planet recommended for several of these villages. It’s also how India rolls – especially Goa.

Candolim worked for me because I could easily run to Panaji, the state capital, for some computer needs and restock on granola bars and contact solution at Newtons. But like most of India, Goa isn’t easy for tourists. No beach trolleys run between the towns that are hours apart. They don’t even have signs pointing to the beach.

Sunset at Arambol beach, India By Sonja Bjelland

I was lucky enough to meet a fellow American at an Internet café and got a bit of the lowdown as well as several motorbike rides so I could actually see more than Candolim.

But finding drop-in yoga classes before the high tourist season proved difficult in Candolim. Several people study with an Ashtanga teacher, a division that sets the poses in a particular series. But many studied that branch of yoga in Mysore, a city several hours away that has strict month-long Ashtanga programs.

The seasonal nature of Goa adds a few other complexities to finding a yoga teacher there.

a.) everyone wants in on the game, trained yoga instructors or not

b.) it’s not a stable business so the studios and locations change frequently

c.) some businesses are only open from November to February.

A better spot for yoga but less developed, Arambol sits right on the beach. It’s also touristy enough that shops hang their wears like in the West instead of expecting you to sit while they show you different options.

Fishing boats near Candolim, India By Sonja Bjelland

The Himalayan School of Yoga has a sign right on the beach making it easy to find and it offers daily classes. But staying there can be a bit tricky if you’re not a backpacker. The Lonely Planet guide says: “simply turn up early in the day to check out who’s check out of your dream hut.”

This can work if you have another place you’re already staying and you’re looking to move, you are renting a motorbike, or you can pay for a rickshaw for the hour-long drive.

More expensive yoga resort options exist in Goa, but most only offer classes during the high season so double check before you go.